Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and tourists equally swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
In a recent announcement, Unesco designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a exclusive group of world cities and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it becomes part of a global network of more than four hundred urban centers across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a driver of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "stands as proof of its deep-rooted culinary traditions and dynamic gastronomic culture," as noted by a official from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this time-honored city arrives as no surprise to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, bustling, and vibrant city – the capital of India's most populous state – is at last in the global gaze for what has perennially shaped its soul: an immense devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a continued conversation from morning until night in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and taken to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of food experimentation, merging Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was invented to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only showcases seasonal produce but also gives the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on countless corners, there are small establishments and stalls – hidden gems that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start gathering from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, presented in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a unpretentious joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and demanding. The artisan beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but say that their younger generation are unwilling to master the skill.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's immense food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is hoped, will encourage more people globally to discover these narratives and travel to the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.